The Series 100 is a single speed tool. The Series 200 is a two speed tool.

The Series 100 is a constant speed tool – 35,000 RPM. The tool itself is an economical option that allows the use of accessories that require a high speed. A key application that generally requires high speed is a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel. Using that at a slow speed will make the accessory less effective. There are high speed rotary tool accessories in our line that we do not recommend using with the Series 100 because the accessories require a lower speed for safe operation. Always check the speed rating on an accessory before using it in the tool.

Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.

The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.

First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.

No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool – remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. If you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck, secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. If you're using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you don't tighten on any actual fluting – accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting – but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.

There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

No – we exclude the Grout Removal Attachment because the accessory should operate between speeds of 18,000 – 20,000 rpm. Also, the A550 Shield comes with a brush – so while the attachment will fit, keep in mind we do not recommend using that brush on the Series 100.

The Series 100 is really designed for Cutting, Carving, Sanding, Engraving. . . and applications that require high speed. If you know your application could require more varying speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the Series 200, 3000, 4000 or 4200.

This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.

There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.

The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.

The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.

The key difference is that the 7700 (7.2 V) and 7300 (4.8 V) both come with rechargeable ni-cad battery packs. The 7000 works on alkaline batteries that you supply.

No – cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.

We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.

These tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exceptions are router bits, multipurpose cutting blades and the ceramic wall tile cutting accessory, and any accessory that recommends the use of a guide or attachment to manage the use. The reason is simple – even the fastest of these tools – the model 7700 only operates at 20,000 RPM. Some of those more aggressive applications should really be done with a higher speed. You can use cutting wheels with these tools but cutting is an aggressive application – you may find the process will take longer, wear the battery down faster and wear the accessory out more quickly. Most of the accessories you will use will have a 1/8” shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8” shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32”) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16”) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32”) has 1 ring. Note – after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.

There’s not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened. However, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the chuck and have the accessory held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool – remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we’re smart enough to never say never. IF the tool by itself seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you’re using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you don’t tighten on any actual fluting – accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting – but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you’re getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you’re operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That’s our greatest interest.

No – these tools are all limited. We do not recommend attempting use of the 7000 or 7300 with any attachments. The 7700 is only recommended to be used with the A550 (Sheild), A576 (Sanding and Grinding Guide), 675 Sharpening Guide, 678-01 (Circle Guide), and A679-02 (Sharpening Attachment kit).

The tools are cordless – and they are all small. So they’re a great option for working out small project details without the constraints of a cord. The greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you’re using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply isn’t possible. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have – but they also have run time limits. These tools are small and are really designed for light-duty applications.

This is a great question. While we can’t really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – and a tool with a cord - they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The ni-cad and alkaline cordless tools are a much lighter duty option, the batteries will need to be recharged or replaced. If you’re a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!

When plugged in, the green LED light indicates connection has been made and the battery is charging. The green should blink while the battery charges, the green light will be solid when the battery is fully charged.

We recommend first charging the battery overnight – but normally it will take 3 hours.

A great question and often a point of frustration for users. Good habits can stretch the life of the battery. . . Keep in mind that with the first charge, the battery will only accept about 80% of its maximum charge. So it may take a few charge/discharge cycles to get the battery to a full capacity. Consider discharging the battery to a very limited use capacity before recharging. (It’s not necessary to run it out completely). Then recharge before use and don’t interrupt the charging cycle. During periods of non-use, consider unplugging the charger, and storing the battery with only a limited use capacity. When first recharging then, give the battery some extra time on the charger.

The run time on the battery is going to depend on good charging habits – and your application. Hotter more strenuous applications will run the battery down much more quickly than light sanding or polishing. Keep in mind on the 7000 that run time is going to depend on the application, and on the quality of the alkaline batteries you use in the tool.

The 8220, 8100, ad 8050 all share some similarities, but the 8220 kicks control up a notch or two over the 8100 and 8050. They are all powered by lithium ion power, the 8220 is a 12V Max battery pack that is removable from the unit, the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8220 can work with our older high performance attachments. The 8220 features a speed slide that is separated from the on/off switch. The benefit for any user is that when you find that sweet spot for speed, they will be able to get back to that pretty quickly. The on/off switch on the 8220 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.

No. Cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.

We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32 F, and below 113F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.

The high performance motor will allow the tool to maintain speed under load/in use. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It is important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.

Electronic monitoring provides soft start that reduces the stress on the tool that can occur from a high torque start.

This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.

There is not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened. However, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck, there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory, if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough, see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.

All of the Dremel High Speed Rotary Tool Attachments are compatible with the 8220 but you may experience reduced run times on the battery when using certain attachments.

Not an absolute answer here either, but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you cannot access the collet nut or the chuck. So you have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it is hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

The tool is cordless, so the greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible, like sharpening a chain saw in the woods, or out on your ATV. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits.

This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!

Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.

The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.

Three solid lights means the battery is fully charged and ready to go. Two lights indicates the battery has 50% of the remaining charge. One flashing light means the tool is about to turn off. Three flashing lights indicate the tool is too hot for use, let it cool down. Three side to side lights indicate the battery is too low to run at all. A recharge is necessary.

Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have three lights, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.

Yes

The Dremel 4200 features a unique method of quickly changing the same shank size accessory – called EZ change. it is supported with a different nose on the tool and a different style collet. This feature allows the user to release or pull back on two small levers on the housing of the tool to loosen and remove or insert the accessory, and pull forward toward the nose of the tool to tighten the accessory and hold it in place. The feature is designed to save time and effort when users are switching from one accessory to the other with the same shank size. The model 4000 uses our standard collets held in place by a collet nut that threads onto the tool.

Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes. The bushes should last between 40 and 80 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes after every 8 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8? then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes can be ordered by calling 1 800 437 3635.

Electronic Feedback Control is similar to cruise control on a car. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It's important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque – or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material – consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.

This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks and will require the use of a different collet. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#EZ481, #EZ482, #EZ483). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory. If you are having trouble finding those, they can be ordered by calling us at 1(800) 437-3635.

To change from collet to another you will need a needle nose pliers (not supplied with the tool). With the pliers, lightly depress the finger of the collet until it is clear of the detent feature that holds the collet in place. Then pull the collet free from the end of the tool (EZ Change Chuck). To insert a new collet, insert the narrow end of the new collet completely into the EZ Change Chuck. The fingers of the collet will have to be aligned with the detents of the EZ Change chuck to be fully inserted. (For more information and illustrations, please refer to the owner's manual for your tool).

It is not possible to use the standard keyless chuck or general line collets on the model 4200. In the event being able to use those holding methods is more critical to your application, our recommendation is to consider the model 4000.

The steps necessary to hold the accessory in place on the 4200 are faster to actuate than unthreading the collet nut or chuck, however it's still really important to execute the steps completely. First make sure you are inserting a shank size that is a match for the collet you have in the 4200. In other words, if you've never changed the collet on your 4200, double check the shank size on your accessory – make sure it's a 1/8 shank. Then, pull the blue EZ change levers back (and keep them back) so all of the pressure is off the collet and insert the shank of the accessory as deeply into the tool as you can. Once fully seated, pull the EZ Change levers FORWARD toward the nose of the tool as far as you can. This will secure the accessory. The accessory should not slip during use. In the event you experience anything of that nature during use, you can try the following: Remove the accessory and remove the collet. Make sure there is nothing in the collet that is causing the accessory to stay slip (like debris or the broken end of a different accessory). Blow out the nose of the tool, or the EZ Chuck portion and then re-insert the collet, then the accessory and tighten completely. Two things to keep in mind: with extended use, the collet will wear and may require replacement. Also, If you are experiencing accessory movement during use after doing these simple trouble shooting steps, please contact us so we can provide service for your tool. The accessory should always be secure during operation.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start with the tool with nothing in it. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a few seconds and come up to full speed. If you detect something like a wobble or hear anything that is concerning to you, the tool should be sent to our service center for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the accessory - making sure you insert the accessory as deeply as possible and pull the EZ Change lever FORWARD to lock that accessory in fully. Now turn the tool on again. How is the tool running? When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.

The 4200 can be used with all CURRENT attachments, however, there are some things to consider... If you have what appears to be CURRENT attachments in your possession, with the advent of the 4200 we adjusted some things on those attachments to allow them to fit on the 4200. If the attachment you want to use came in the kit with your 4200, it will certainly work. If you had the attachment prior to owning the 4200 and it doesn't seem like a good fit, do not force that attachment onto the tool. It may simply require a different insert to get it to work and we can help you with that. Another consideration is that the attachment method may not be identical to attaching things to our other high speed rotary tools, so carefully consider all of the instructions for connecting any attachment. For example, to connect the 225 Flex Shaft, the 575 Right Angle, and 670 Mini Saw, you should first remove the housing cap from the tool, then insert the drive coupling (looks like a larger accessory with a square hole in the end), then thread the adapter (solid black cone shaped piece with grip on one edge and threading on the other) onto the end of the 4200. With those things in place, you can now attach the 225, 575, or 670.

These attachments were all developed long before the technology that allows for a faster accessory change when using just the 4200. In the event you are using one of these attachments, to access completely the levers to change an accessory, the tool will need to be removed from the attachment.

In most cases, the answer is YES because the EZ Change levers may be easier to access, you will have better confirmation that the accessory is seating completely, and more confidence that you have fully locked the accessory in place.

If you don't release the levers and keep them released when inserting an accessory, you may not really seat the accessory fully. Seating the accessory is the first critical step in securing the accessory. When you pull the plungers forward, they will not click, you simply have met with substantial resistance to getting them any further forward. Consider it the same way you would when using an actual threaded chuck or collet nut – as you thread it on, it does not click to indicate the accessory is locked in. Yet the accessory is secure. An additional consideration when using this tool is practicing NOT pushing or bearing down on the accessory. The general rule is if you have to do that, you may have the wrong accessory. Our tool still works the best by using a less aggressive, more frequent pass.

Not necessarily. The 4200 is designed to be a tool that will work as well for heavy duty applications as it does for the lighter duty uses – giving the user the freedom of a more rapid same shank accessory change. Our goal in bringing this tool to our users is the continuation of our commitment to on-going improvement, innovation, and high standards.

This is a great question. This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. Those include the 4200, 4000 in corded tools and the 8220 in cordless tools. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler running longer. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. By getting a tool like the 4200, you are stepping into a tool that opens up for you our entire rotary line of accessories and attachments. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.

There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application. If the tool inordinately warm or uncomfortable to hold during your application, please contact us for assistance. As we said, the tool is running at high rpm – there will be some heat, but the tool should never be too hot for you to hold comfortably. In the event that would happen, we are here to help.

The 8100 and 8050 hare some similarities, but also some clear differences. They are both powered by lithium ion power: the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8100 features a speed slide that is built into the on/off switch.

No. Cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.

We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32 F, and below 113F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.

This tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exception are router bits, we do not recommend using those without the attachment, and we do not recommend this tool with those attachments. The accessories will work. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.

There is not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened. However, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck, there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory, if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough, see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient, but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.

No, it is not recommended for use with the 231 Shaper Router Table, the 335 Plunge Router Attachments, or the older high performance attachments. Keep in mind the tool is cordless, you may experience reduced run times on the battery when using certain attachments.

Not an absolute answer here either, but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you cannot access the collet nut or the chuck. So you have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it is hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

The tool is cordless, so the greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible, like sharpening a chain saw in the woods, or out on your ATV. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits. This tool is lighter weight than our 8220, so it may be more comfortable in your hand.

This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8100 is a lighter duty option, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!

Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.

The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.

Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have an operational tool, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.

Yes.

The 8050 and 8100 have some similarities, but also some clear differences. They are both powered by lithium ion power the 8050 is an 8V Max battery contained lithium ion powered tool, the 8100 is an 8V Max lithium ion powered too with a removable battery pack. They both use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8050 features an advanced push button speed selector and a separate on/off switch. The 8050 is also the physically smallest high speed rotary tool we make and is probably one of the most comfortable and easy to control tools as a result. Users will be less fatigued and more capable of managing fine detail with this tool.

No. Cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes

We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32F, and below 113F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.

This tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exceptions are router bits, multipurpose cutting blades and the ceramic wall tile cutting accessory, and any accessory that recommends the use of a guide or attachment to manage the use. The reason is simple, no attachments will work with the 8050. You can use cutting wheels with this tool but this tool is not recommended for cutting metals. Generally, any accessory that can be used free hand is suitable for use on this tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.

There is not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened. However, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the chuck and have the accessory held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck, there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory, if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough, see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient, but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool by itself seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool, more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.

No. It will not work with any attachments.

The tool is cordless and it is small. So it is a great option for working out project details without the constraints of a cord. The greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits. This tool is lighter weight than our 8220 or 8100 so it will be more comfortable in your hand.

This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord, they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8050 is a lighter duty option, the battery/tool will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!

Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.

The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material, turn it back on, adjust your speed as necessary and continue working. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you?re attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.

When the light flashes red on the tool, it is an indication the tool is about to turn off and will need recharging, or it could be a sign that the tool is too hot or cold for use.

Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. To check that, take your tool back out of the charger, turn it on and see what color the fuel gauge light is. IF it is green, you are good to go. The tool does not need any charging. On the charger itself, there is nothing that will light up. All of those signals will show up on the tool. When the battery terminals in the tool make contact with the charger, the tool will evaluate the state of the battery. If charging is necessary, so the battery can accept any charge at all, the blue lights on the tool that indicated speed will scroll while the tool is accepting a charge. IF the battery is too hot or cold, the tool will not charge immediately, but will reevaluate and when the tool gets to the proper temperature, charging will begin.

3 hours and 45 minutes.

The battery charges at a slower rate so the battery charges safely.

These tools all share some similarities, but the 3000 provides the user with a click-and-set variable speed control. The Series 100 is a single speed tool and the Series 200 is a two speed tool. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 3000 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The variable speed option allows the user to take the speed down a little further when using accessories that have a speed limit – like a brush or a buff.

Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes

First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.

This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool – remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. If you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck, secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. If you're using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you don't tighten on any actual fluting – accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting – but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.

There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

It depends – the 3000 features variable speed on a click-and-set switch – when using this tool your speed selection is going to be more of a feel or a sound as you get comfortable using the tool. The speed chart in the owner's manual acts as a guideline for the speed settings of 2/4/6/8/10 on the tool. If you know your application could require more exacting speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the 4000 or 4200.

This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.

There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.

The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.

The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.

No, you aren't missing speeds. The switch is a continuous slide/click and set switch. There are detents that create the "click" settings, and those run from end to end beneath the switch. The detents can start before the necessary contact is made with the switch – making it seem that you are "missing a speed." Your speed range is still 5,000 to 32,000 rpm.

These tools share the same body style, but the Series 200 is a two speed tool. The Series 100 is a single speed tool. They use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The Series 200 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The low speed option allows the use of accessories that have a speed limit, like a brush or a buff.

Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.

The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1 (800) 437-3635

First, verify if the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut, so it is just a little stuck in there. Accessories will not fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You will know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you are seeing. IF this does not work to open that up, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.

This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they can be purchased separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.

There is not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened. However, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck. There are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory, if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough, see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is convenient, but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot the issue for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool – remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet, and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. If you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck, secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. If you're using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you don't tighten on any actual fluting – accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting – but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.

There's not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. This is because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

No, the keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

It depends: The Series 200 features two speeds: 15,000 and 35,000 rpm. The benefit of that is you do not have to wonder how fast the tool is going, those speeds are the set speeds. The lower speed setting will allow the use of the full selection of our high speed rotary tool line of accessories, but some materials may really require a lower speed still, like plastic and some polishing applications. If you know your application could requires a wider range of speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the 3000, 4000 or 4200.

This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.

There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.

The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.

The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't overtighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to overtighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.

The 4000 and 3000 share some similarities, but the 4000 has greater control compared to the 3000. Both tools use the same collets, and work with our keyless chuck, and all current attachments. Additionally, the 4000 can work with our older high-performance attachments. The 4000 features a speed dial that is separated from the on/off switch and can dial up or down speed in approximately 1000 rpm increments. The benefit for any user is that when you find that "sweet-spot" for speed, they will be able to get back to that. The on/off switch on the 4000 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.

Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.

The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1 (800) 437-3635

Electronic Feedback Control is similar to cruise control on a car. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It is important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque – or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material – consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.

This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they can be purchased separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

There is not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened. However, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck. There are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory, if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough, see the next question.

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is convenient, but it is not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot the issue for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool – remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet, and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. If you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck, secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. If you're using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you don't tighten on any actual fluting – accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting – but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.

There's not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. This is because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

No, the keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

No. The 4000 is designed to be a tool that will work as well for heavy duty applications as it does for the lighter duty uses.

This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.

There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.